Must Eatz // Oaxaca, Mexico
- Sarah Kay
- Feb 16, 2019
- 4 min read
Updated: Feb 17, 2019
Out of the gate, you should know Oaxaca has one of the best food scenes in all of Mexico. From Chapulines (crickets), to Queso De Oaxaca, to Mezcal to Tlyudas... You will fall in love with the true flavors of Oaxaca.
Chapulines. Damn good crickets:
Don't you knock em' till you try em'. Chapulines are a staple in Oaxaca and are eaten at all times of the day. A Chapuline is a cricket (not a grasshopper) that has been cooked in special seasoning with a beautiful "crrrrrruunncch".

Don't worry, you don't have to eat these by themselves (but you certainly can… they are are delicious)! Traditionally, chapulines are served with fresh tortillas, salsas, guacamole and whatever else is on your table. You will see them at every market in giant bowls. You can buy small, medium or large chapulines. I like to stick right in the middle and get the medium chapulines. Everyone eats these, so this is a must try in Oaxaca!
Holy Mole!
Mole originates from Oaxaca, and there are so many ways to make it. The most famous type of mole is mole negro, which is darker than mole poblano but just as thick and rich. Mole is extremely flavorful, filling and delicious. It includes chocolate, chili peppers, onions, garlic and more, but what makes it distinct is the addition of a plant called hoja santa. While in Oaxaca, I had 3 different types of Mole: Mole Verde, Mole Amarillo and Mole Negro. All were delicious, but I've got to stick with the classic… and say that Mole Negro was the best of the three.

Tlyuda's FTW:
A Tlyuda (sometimes pronounced clyuda) is a handmade dish in traditional Oaxacan cuisine, consisting of a large, thin, crunchy, partially fried or toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, Oaxacan cheese and salsa. You CANNOT leave Oaxaca without eating one of these! I ate my first Tyluda at Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Dear lord, it was so delicious. The tortilla is cooked on the griddle to perfection with a crunchy texture. This thing is giant, so if you've got a pal definitely split.

Tejate:
Is a non-alcoholic maize and cacao beverage made in Oaxaca, originating from pre-Hispanic times. It remains very popular among the indigenous and especially in rural areas. Ingredients include toasted maize, fermented cacao beans, toasted mamey pits (pixtle) and flor de cacao (also known as rosita de cacao). These are finely ground into a paste then mixed by hand. Again, if you are fully immersing yourself in the cuisine... you must have Tejate. I recommend getting it from the Mercado Tacoluca.

Escamole AKA Ant Eggs:
Edible larvae and pupae of ants are harvested from the roots of the Agave Tequilana (tequila) or Agave americana (maguey—mezcal) plants in Mexico. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs... So, a long fricken time. They taste buttery and nutty, with a texture sort of like cottage cheese. Again, don't knock em' till ya try em! They are served with tortillas, guac and salsas. Don't be scurrrd, once you get over the fact you are eating ant eggs... you will start to realize that anything is good with guac ;)

Mezcal:
Okay, so not my most favorite alcohol ever... but Oaxaca is the birthplace of Mezcal and if you are going to try it, you need to try it here. Every corner you turn you will find a Mezcaleria. I'm not worried that while you are traveling in Oaxaca you won't see one... but if you are looking for the best Mezcal, I recommend going on a tour at Oro De Oaxaca. There you learn how it's made, see how it ferments and at the end they give you unlimited simples #party

HIDDEN DISCOVERY:
While on my way back from Hautulco (the coast), my friend and I got stranded in a small town called Pluma Hildago. This was the best/worst experience ever. When driving back to Oaxaca from Huatulco a truck over turned and blocked the only road to get back into Oaxaca on the mountain. Yes, there is only one road on the mountain, and yes it is single lane. We learned that tow trucks would not arrive until the morning to remove the truck from the road, so we turned around and started a search for a place to stay the night.
Pluma Hidalgo: The Town of the Pica Dita.
Pluma Hidalgo is a tiny town with an adorable Centro and the kindest people. We pulled up in our van (who I named Cherry) around 9:00 PM and found a small hotel. In the Centro, there were kids playing hide-and-seek, music echoing from building to building and papel picado strung all around the small city.
After a night's rest, we searched for breakfast. Having no pesos and smelling like a mixture of concern, sweat and dirt, a local took us in to a tiny restaurant where I had THE BEST BREAKFAST OF MY LIFE. Coffee, breads, tortillas, fruit, eggs and pica ditas. What the eff is a pica dita?

Okay *rolls up sleeves* a pica dita (to the left) is very similar to a tortilla, however it's cooked and pressed differently, giving the tortilla (aka your vessel) a whole new purpose. A pica dita is cooked on a wood fire griddle and longer than a traditional tortilla. After flipped, the edges of the tortilla are folded up almost like a pie crust, then the middle of the tortilla is pressed in creating grooves... which in turn, is now a pica dita, not a tortilla! This is done, because a pica dita is always served with frijoles. The edges are pressed up, so the frijoles don't run off the tortilla. #mindblown I even got the opportunity to go in their kitchen and make a pica dita with the local women of the town.
So go enjoy Oaxaca! Everywhere you turn there is a culinary experience waiting to happen. Be bold, get out of your comfort zone and eat the damn bugs! :P
xoxo
-Eatz
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